ALONE IN THE PALACE

So here I am, managing the palace on my own while Debbie takes her Doxycillin and Prilosac in Mbabane. To bring everyone up to date, the final diagnosis was Mediterranean spotted fever, aka African tick typhus, caused by Rickettsia conorii. All rickettsioses are treated with doxycycline, but she was undertreated because of her history of stomach ulcers and without consideration of the size of the bite. Now she is taking a heavier dose, but because of that, is being watched at Gloria’s. She’s been improving and is pushing for release Sunday morning.

Meanwhile, I’m lord and master of the palace. My only subject is Lizzie who goes about her business without my interference. But I certainly miss sharing the load of the responsibilities. In Debbie’s absence and without her organization, I’ve been making more trips into town, I have to plan and prepare my meals, I’ve done the back-breaking chore of washing clothes, and it’s simply lonely within the walls of the cold palace. These might seem minor inconveniences to you, but remember this is Africa. And that’s on top of my Very Important Work.

My day starts with the alarm (on my ‘phone. You wouldn’t believe how many key strokes are required to get results from an African ‘phone.) I stumble to the shower unsure if I will have either hot water or any water at all. (And this is in our palace so I’m not complaining. The majority of PCVs here don’t have either of those concerns.) After breakfast, I go to assembly where I make a mental note of what staff is present. We have lost many of the deaf support teachers (who haven’t been paid since January. Housing, and now meals, are provided to those who have stayed.) Teachers were paid for June but the threat is that they will only get 50% for July because the kingdom is broke. Nurses were on strike this week at Good Shepherd because they didn’t get paid and Debbie had said she would help if that came about.

There is only a cold water tap to the wash tub—I cheat by adding a carafe of heated water to the tub. The tub is right outside our back door, the bottom is about knee-high and the lip about pelvis high with wash-board corrugations built into the forward slanting surface. That means it is back-breaking work to do a load of wash, labor intensive and time consuming. A number of times today, the kids expressed curiosity why my knuckles were bloody. I guess the Swazis must develop calluses on their knuckles from washing clothes. And I also noticed that nobody spoke to me while I was doing this chore even though we are always greeted when in the yard. I suspect I violated another cultural taboo.

I had to visit the NERCHA office twice this week, a 25 minute walk. My business took about two minutes to conduct, but another two to five minutes of greetings and obligatory conversation, followed by a 25 minute walk home. This is typical use of one’s time. The walk to ShopRite is another five minutes beyond and with Debbie out of town, we are burning through air-time, so I need to walk even a little farther to buy air time for my ‘phone, and I transfer a portion to her ‘phone. I am only allowed to transfer E100 per day, so I’ll make several walks into town just so we can keep in touch.

Meals are a challenge for me and I must compliment Debbie for her originality and versatility. I’ve explained before the limitations we find in the grocery, so I won’t repeat myself. I’ve even bought a can of beans, but haven’t had to resort to it—yet. Dinner last night was wurst in pasta with broccoli salad (after treating the broccoli in bleach solution, of course).

I refer you to Katie’s link (in my side bar). She wrote an interesting blog on what to bring and what to expect for Group 9, “Greetings, future PCVs”, on May 9.

I’ve added another link, “Swazi Media”, which changes every day so I’m not sure what you’ll see, but it is very interesting, uncensored, reading on the Swazi political scene and should be most cogent when there is no money left next month.

And for those of you who venture into U-tube, check out “So you think you want to join the Peace Corps”, four minutes of humor in truth. Pick the phrases that apply.

The weather is absolutely beautiful here now. I continue to be impressed with the big, blue, clear sky. Debbie has spent some time in Gloria’s yard and if you’ll excuse me, I’m going for a run. I hope the next post you read here will be written by Debbie on Sunday.